Portulaca oleracea
When I told my husband I was planting purslane in the garden, I think he thought I was a bit crazy.
He probably remembered all the times I struggled to pull this stubborn weed out of my garden beds in the past.
Now, I’ve learned more. Portulaca oleracea is actually a tasty, useful green that – as you might expect since it’s often called a weed – grows almost effortlessly.
Oh, and did I mention it’s also very healthy?
Writer Michael Pollan described it as one of the two most nutritious wild plants you can eat, along with lamb’s quarters, in his book In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto.
You can grow purslane as a microgreen all year and as a vegetable throughout the summer.
In fact, the biggest challenge might be keeping this tangy green from growing too well!
There are a few easy steps to help you get a great harvest, like picking the leaves at the right time of day for the best taste.
You’ll also want some ideas on how to use these greens once you’ve picked them, so let’s get started!
P. oleracea is an annual succulent that, over time, has been seen as both a pesky weed and a valuable medicinal plant.
Also called little hogweed, pigweed, fatweed, and pusley, purslane has recently become popular in the U.S. for its high nutritional value.
It’s packed with antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals – it even has seven times more beta carotene than carrots!
The Portulaceae family includes other types of purslane, like wingpod purslane (P. umbraticola) and moss rose (P. grandiflora). Unlike common purslane, these are usually grown for their flowers rather than for food or medicine.
The wingpod purslane is a perennial plant with rounded green leaves, red stems, and yellow flowers. Moss rose, an annual plant, grows in desert areas and often has spiky leaves with flowers in different colors.
Common purslane, however, looks a bit like a small jade plant, and you can eat its leaves, stems, flowers, and seeds either raw or cooked. Its leaves have a slightly citrusy, salty taste with a peppery bite, similar to arugula but with a juicier crunch.
This plant has small yellow flowers with five petals and yellow centers, which bloom from midsummer to early fall. Once fertilized, these flowers produce seeds.
Not everyone shares my enthusiasm for this nutritious green, though. The U.S. Department of Agriculture even classifies it as a “noxious weed,” and in some areas, growing it may be restricted or prohibited.
But don’t let that stop you (unless your local laws do!). Purslane is also recognized as a “superfood” and is now appearing in fine dining and farm-to-table restaurants across the U.S.
Cultivation and History
P. oleracea, or purslane, has spread to almost every part of the world. It likely started in North Africa and southern Europe, reaching North America long ago, where Native Americans were already growing and collecting it before European settlers arrived.
Historically, purslane was grown in central Europe, Asia, and around the Mediterranean. You can find it in the wild, which has a stronger, sharper taste. I find that cultivated purslane is less bitter and a bit sweeter. Cultivated purslane, which grows best in USDA Zones 5 to 10, usually has bigger leaves and stands more upright, making it easier to harvest.
Propagation
Purslane is usually grown from seeds, but it can also grow from stem cuttings, divisions, or transplants. However, you might not find seeds or starter plants at your local nursery.
Growing from Seed
Once you buy purslane seeds, you may never need to buy them again, as one plant can produce over 50,000 seeds in its lifetime. You can plant the seeds directly outdoors once the last frost is over and the soil reaches about 60°F.
Sprinkle the seeds on moist soil and press them lightly, but don’t cover them because they need sunlight to sprout. Seedlings appear in 7 to 10 days. When they have a few true leaves, thin them to about eight inches apart.
You can also start seeds indoors about three weeks before the last frost. After they develop a set of true leaves and frost risk has passed, you can transplant them outside. Remember to harden them off by placing them in a sheltered spot, like a patio, and gradually increasing their sunlight exposure by an hour each day for a week. Keep young seedlings away from strong winds and intense sun during this time.
Growing from Stem Cuttings
Purslane can spread easily, not only from seeds but also from stem cuttings. Any piece of the stem can grow into a new plant, making it easy to propagate – although keeping it under control might be a bit of a challenge!
To grow purslane from stem cuttings, start by cutting a six-inch stem from the main plant with a sharp knife or scissors. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the stem.
Plant the stem in potting soil, burying about half of it. Place it in bright, indirect light, and keep the soil moist but not too wet.
After about a week, the cutting should start to grow. You’ll know it’s ready for transplanting when it holds steady if you gently pull on it.
Alternatively, you can cut one-inch pieces of stem and bury them a quarter-inch deep directly in the garden. In a few weeks, you’ll see new plants growing. This method works well, but the first method is usually the most reliable.
Transplanting
Transplanting purslane is very easy. Use a trowel to dig up the plant, making sure to keep its roots and stems together. Dig a new hole twice as wide as the root ball, place the plant in the hole at the same depth it was growing before, and fill in the hole with soil.
Note that unless you remove the entire plant, it may grow back in the same spot.
Growing Purslane
Purslane thrives in full sun but will also grow in spots with some shade during the hottest part of the day, which can help encourage more flowers.
These plants prefer warm conditions – the hotter, the better. They’ll do well next to a brick wall or cement area that stays warm, and they’re happy in temperatures over 70°F and even above 100°F.
Purslane can grow in almost any soil, including in cracks in sidewalks or along roads. For best results, plant in well-draining, average-quality soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5.
You’ll get bigger, juicier plants if you grow purslane in loamy, well-drained soil, but plants grown in poorer, compact soil tend to have a stronger flavor.
When it comes to fertilizing, you don’t need to worry too much. Purslane doesn’t require extra nutrients, although adding some compost to the soil when planting can be helpful.
Watering is simple too. Purslane doesn’t need a lot of water. Too much water can kill it, but giving it consistent moisture will help it grow stronger and leafier.
As a succulent, purslane prefers dry soil, but it shouldn’t be completely dry. To check the moisture level, stick your finger into the soil. If it’s dry up to your first knuckle, it’s time to water.
To avoid fungus, water at the base of the plant, not from above.
If you don’t want it to take over your garden, trim the plant back to about two inches above the soil, or harvest it all before it flowers.
In midsummer, adding about an inch of organic mulch, like wood chips, can help stop it from spreading. Mulch blocks sunlight, preventing seeds from germinating, and some types, like black walnut, can also slow down growth.
Purslane can also grow well in containers. It doesn’t need daily watering, so it’s an easy plant to care for in pots. However, even in containers, wild purslane seeds might still sprout, since they’re determined to grow!
Growing for Microgreens
Purslane microgreens are tangy and juicy. I grow them on my windowsill all year, and because they grow quickly, I always have a fresh supply.
Use a seed tray or any shallow, wide container and fill it with potting mix, at least half an inch deep.
Sprinkle the seeds over the moist soil and gently press them in. Place the tray in a sunny spot where the temperature stays around 75°F, or use a heat mat to keep the seeds warm.
Keep the soil moist until the seeds sprout, which will take about a week. After that, let the top of the soil dry out slightly between waterings.
Once the seeds have sprouted and their first leaves (called cotyledons) appear, you can start picking them. This usually happens within 14 to 21 days.
Unlike some plants, purslane’s first leaves are juicy and tasty, so you don’t have to wait for the real leaves to grow before you start harvesting.
I like to pick my microgreens as I need them and leave a few seedlings to transplant into the garden for a continuous supply.
Growing Tips:
- Plant in full sun
- Don’t overwater
- Trim or remove plants before they flower to stop them from spreading
Varieties to Choose From: There are many varieties of purslane, but the most common ones you’ll find are ‘Gruner Red’ and ‘Goldberg.’
If you buy plants from a garden store that are grown as ornaments, they may have been treated with chemicals or pesticides, so it’s not safe to eat their leaves.
Common Purslane:
The usual garden variety (P. oleracea) grows low along the ground and spreads up to 18 inches wide when mature.
Golden Purslane:
A variety of P. oleracea called ‘Golden’ has soft yellow-green leaves and grows to about 10 inches tall.
Goldgelber Purslane:
‘Goldgelber’ grows in about 26 days and spreads up to 12 inches wide, reaching a height of 6 inches when fully grown.
Gruner Red:
P. oleracea ‘Gruner Red’ has stems with a pinkish tint, similar to the common purslane weed. It has thick, oval-shaped green leaves that are about an inch long and grows up to 12 inches tall.
Managing Pests and Diseases:
Purslane is a tough plant that doesn’t usually attract many pests or diseases, but there are a few things to watch for:
Purslane Blotchmine Sawfly:
The larvae of this sawfly, Schizocerella pilicornis, create tunnels inside purslane leaves. These tunnels leave black or blotchy marks, and a large infestation can damage or kill your plants.
The larvae are pale yellow and burrow underground to change into adults. Female adult sawflies lay their eggs on the edges of leaves, and they only live for about a day. The larvae feed inside the leaves before moving to the ground to pupate.
Multiple generations can appear each year, and purslane is the only plant this insect attacks. It’s often found in hemp fields, where purslane grows as a weed.
If you see larvae or signs of damage, remove the bugs by hand, and sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants. You can also squash the leaves with mining damage to kill the larvae or remove and dispose of the affected leaves. Encourage parasitic wasps to help control them.
Portulaca Leafmining Weevil:
The larvae of the Hypurus bertrandi weevil make tiny tunnels inside the leaves of purslane. The adults also feed on the edges of leaves, stems, and seed pods, but the larvae cause the most damage.
This weevil also targets common purslane. You can find it in fruit orchards, where purslane grows as a weed.
To control them, use a targeted insecticide like Spinosad, applying it at night when the bugs are most active. You can also encourage parasitic wasps, like Diglyphus isaea, to help control the pests.
Fungus:
The only major disease purslane faces is black stem rot, caused by a fungus called Dichotomophthora portulacae. This usually happens if you overwater or live in a damp climate. You’ll see black spots on the stems, which can spread to the leaves.
To treat it, use a sulfur or copper-based fungicide if the infection spreads to the leaves. A mild case can be treated with neem oil, which works well for small spots on the stems.
Harvesting:
You can harvest mature leaves about 50 days after planting the seeds.
The time of day affects the flavor. In the morning, the leaves have more malic acid, making them taste more sour. In the evening, the acid level drops, and the leaves are sweeter. Try both to see what you like best.
To harvest, use sharp scissors to cut a section of the plant and place it in a cool spot. You can pick a single stem, and it will grow back. If you need more, you can cut the plant down to about 2 inches above the soil, and it will regrow as long as it’s still warm.
I often trim the whole plant when making a salad, leaving a few inches at the base to regrow.
Since purslane grows quickly, you can expect to harvest it three times a year from each plant.
A Note of Caution:
If you’re foraging or buying purslane from a nursery, be careful. It may have been sprayed with chemicals. If you’re unsure, don’t eat it.
Preservation:
You can store purslane leaves and stems in a cotton cloth or plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week. They may last a few days longer if you don’t wash them first.
If you have too much purslane and won’t use it right away, you can dry it. Dry purslane works as a thickener in soups or desserts.
Since purslane has a lot of water, remove the leaves from the stems and spread them out in a single layer on a rack or cookie sheet. Use a food dehydrator or an oven set to 135°F to dry them until they’re brittle.
Once dried, you can use purslane as an herb in cooking or grind it into powder to add to soups and smoothies.
Nutrition
Many fish are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for your health. However, fish can be costly, and some fishing methods harm the environment.
Purslane, on the other hand, contains omega-3s like alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and gamma-linolenic acid (LNA). It has about four milligrams of these healthy fats per gram of fresh leaves. Growing your own purslane can save you money and help the planet. In fact, purslane has more omega-3s than any other edible green plant.
Even though purslane’s leaves and stems are mostly water, they are also full of vitamins A and C, plus magnesium, iron, and potassium.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
Purslane has a mild taste that works well in many dishes, including salads with lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers, or with eggs and fish.
I love pickled purslane. To make a simple pickle, chop the leaves and put them in a jar. Bring vinegar brine (I use apple cider vinegar, water, sugar, and pickling spices) to a boil and pour it over the leaves. Seal the jar and refrigerate for about a week before using.
Pickled purslane is great in potato salad or on top of mackerel sandwiches.
I also enjoy adding fresh or sautéed purslane leaves to soups just before serving. One of my favorite recipes is chilled cucumber purslane soup, which is perfect for hot weather.
In summer, try stuffing fresh purslane leaves into trout before roasting with butter and lemon. In winter, when my purslane microgreens are one of the few fresh things growing, I add them to a grain salad with pomegranate seeds and barley.
When cooking purslane, my best advice is to eat it raw or cook it all the way through. If you only partially roast or boil it, the texture becomes slimy, similar to okra.
Medicinal Uses
Purslane has been used for its medicinal benefits for centuries.
Some studies show that it may help reduce uterine bleeding. In one study, people with diabetes saw improved insulin levels when they ate purslane regularly.
A small clinical trial showed that purslane might improve lung function in people with asthma.
A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology in 2000 found that purslane can be used as an anti-inflammatory when applied to the skin. It may also help speed up wound healing, according to another study in 2003.
At home, I like to soak dried purslane leaves in olive oil for several days to make a salve. I use this on my skin when it gets irritated from the cold winter air or the summer heat.
Growing Purslane is Really Easy
Many herbs and vegetables are known for being easy to grow, but purslane might just be the easiest of them all.
The hardest part will probably be figuring out how to use all of your harvest and preventing it from spreading too much in your garden.
Now that you know how to make the most of this healthy plant, hopefully you’ll think twice before throwing away purslane the next time you find it in your yard.
Feel free to share your favorite ways to prepare purslane in the comments below – I’m always looking for new ideas to try in my kitchen.